16/01/2015

LCM AW15 Highlights

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Starting off the menswear calendar for 2015 was London Collections: Men. A first for the menswear showcase, the event span over four days as opposed to the usual three, which meant there was more to see and less of a mad rush to see it. We went down to observe some of the various catwalks, presentations and menswear peacocks, highlighting some of our favourites of the British bunch with both clothing and grooming in mind.

As inventors of the trench coat and very much a historical brand in terms of fashion, the return of Aquascutum to LC:M was very much anticipated, who showcased their AW15 collection away from the main venues and opted for a quaint presentation with drinks at the ICA. Every look could have been pulled from the models and worn to waltz around Soho, as the collection boasted both technicality and wearability with an as-expected British feel. The grooming was on point as well - everything was slightly messy and blowdried to form wind-swept quiffs and subtle partings. There was a mix of short length hair styles and medium length hair styles, all of which were very much on trend for the year to come.

We highlighted Oliver Spencer in our last LC:M roundup, who presented yet another extremely wearable and likeable collection, with pops of colour (they say red is the one this season), oversized knits and use of speckled fabrics and down. Oliver Spencer has always been regarded for his eccentric shows, of which this time featured a live gypsy band playing. Another signature for Oliver Spencer is his unique casting, which features an assortment of individuals of who he's met throughout his life, one time even including his postman. That means there was some real variety in the grooming, but as we've seen before, the majority of styles were swept back and kept off the face, cementing the wind-swept appeal the year.

Back last year Joe Mills worked on a very special collaboration between James Long x River Island Design Forum, grooming the yet-to-be-revealed collection. We'll be showcasing Joe's thought process and the collaboration's fashion film shortly, but we thought it best to highlight the budding designer's work during LC:M. James Long provides a very much futuristic vibe not seen often among British designers, with his streetwear featuring very cleverly used textures. The 60s inspired collection saw plenty of denim and use of shearling, but apparently missed key puffa jackets as they were held in customs. The irony comes from the inspiration behind the collection: often banned underground cinema from the works of Jack Smith. In terms of grooming for this show, messy mop tops and wavy fringes were the style of choice, going hand in hand with Long's futuristic street aesthetic.